Love at first bite

By Tony W. Cartledge

BR Editor

While in Anchorage for the Alaska Baptist Convention during this last official year of the North Carolina/Alaska partnership, I happily anticipated getting my fill of fresh Alaskan fish.

Within three days, I had eaten halibut chowder, teriyaki halibut, blackened halibut pizza, almond crusted salmon, and a salmon burger.

By the fourth day, however, I was ready for something that felt a little more like home. I had noticed a place called "Roscoe's Catfish and Bar-B-Que" near the meeting site, so I decided to stop in after the evening session and check it out. The longer the preacher held forth, the hungrier I got, and he held forth a bit too long.

When I stepped out of the cold rain and walked into Roscoe's about 9:30 p.m., I saw people eating, but they were all employees - who told me they were closed for the night.

But, Roscoe himself (technically, Roscoe Wyche III) rose from the table to offer condolences that I had come too late.

We struck up a conversation and quickly discovered that we both are Baptist believers who were born in Georgia and later moved to North Carolina. Roscoe's father was in the military, and he'd spent time in Fayetteville before being sent to Anchorage.

"Fayetteville," I said. "Does that mean your barbeque is North Carolina eastern style?"

"Oh, yeah," he said. As the obvious disappointment in my eyes mounted, Roscoe took pity on me, pushed through the swinging doors to the kitchen, and proceeded to heat up some of his chopped pork so I could sample a barbeque sandwich.

The tender, tangy result was cooked in Alaska, but would have been perfectly at home in Wilson, Greenville or Kinston.

The motto at Roscoe's is "Let us take your mouth down south." While we crave salmon shipped from Alaska, he imports catfish from Alabama to provide a soul food fix for transplanted southerners.

The camaraderie I sensed that night was a reminder that the fellowship of other believers, like familiar food, can help a person feel at home wherever he or she roams - and I felt right at home with Roscoe.

I don't know when I'll get another chance to visit Alaska, but when I do, Roscoe's Catfish and Bar-B-Que will be on the itinerary.

I'm coming back for the ribs.